FAQ

Wooden flooring comes with many wood species, many material grades, many layer and structure types, many manufacturing processes, and many product varieties.

Wood species: include rosewood species, common broad-leaved species. Base materials include eucalyptus, birch, HDF (high-density fiberboard), etc.

Material grades:

• Solid wood: grades A, B, C
• Pure three-layer: AB, ABC

Layer count and structure:

• Pure solid wood: single layer
• Pure three-layer
• New three-layer (five layers)
• Multi-layer solid wood (eleven layers)
• Laminate flooring substrate: ≥800 kg/m³ (national standard)
• Surface wear resistance: ≥4000 revolutions
• Veneer thickness: 0.6 mm, 1.2 mm, 2.0 mm, 3.0 mm, 4.0 mm

Manufacturing processes – surface finishing:

• Wood surface (wood species, material grade, clear lacquer, printing process)
• Wear-resistant paper surface
• Pure solid wood: flat tongue-and-groove or locking system
• Products for radiant floor heating vs. non-radiant floor heating

Product varieties:

• Pure solid wood
• Pure three-layer
• New three-layer (five layers)
• Multi-layer solid wood
• Parquet flooring (shaped/pattern parquet, herringbone, chevron)
• Laminate flooring
• Non-wood flooring
• SPC (Stone Plastic Composite) flooring
• Bamboo flooring

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Modern wooden flooring is already very moisture-resistant, so there is no special need to raise it. The advantage of raising the floor is that it allows for leveling, not moisture resistance. Once the wooden joists are raised, an enclosed space is created beneath the subfloor, which actually tends to trap moisture more easily. Raising the floor to resist moisture is only a temporary solution. Even if charcoal is placed underneath, the charcoal will eventually become saturated after absorbing moisture. It is therefore recommended to drill ventilation holes in the raised space to allow air circulation.

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There will be a gap between the interior door and the wooden floor. How much gap should be left? The intuitive thought is: the smaller, the better. But how small is small enough? Generally, the door gap can be kept within 1 cm. Of course, it can be smaller, even down to 3–5 mm. However, the recommended minimum is at least 5 mm. Why? Because wooden flooring expands, and interior doors may also swell or warp. Leaving a gap of a certain size is safer for long‑term use. A slightly larger gap can also prevent sand or grit from getting stuck, which could scratch the floor when the door opens. If you prefer a very small gap, make sure the original subfloor is level enough; otherwise, the door may close but then be impossible to open (opening it would hit the wooden floor).

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